Note: This site is now grossly outdated, so first my apologies. I am leaving it on line because it does provide some help for those interested in making their own arrangements.

What this site is about:

When we set up to plan a family ski vacation in Chile back in 1996, we quickly discovered that there was a difference down south. Traveling with two kids we wanted flexibility and we did not have a fortune to spend. However, it soon became evident that our choices were very limited if we restricted ourselves to the usual channels available in the US. Only the biggest of the Chilean hotels were represented in the US, and their pricing structure made few allowances for families. In particular, most of the packages available in the US were priced per person and had fixed stays. Although the prices per person were not exceedingly outrageous, there were few significant breaks for children. As a result we were looking at land costs that were 2-3 times those possible in the US. Moreover, they tended to lock us up for 7-8 consecutive days of skiing in a single resort. We did not want such a tight schedule, so we got to work looking for alternatives. This web page is the result of this search.

Santiago (on a clear day)

What you need to know:

This site is meant to help people interested in making their own arrangements for skiing in Chile - be that because they have unique needs that are not well served by the packages currently being offered through the usual channels, or because of budget constraints. Our focus is limited to those resorts in the immediate vicinity of Santiago, from Portillo on the North to Lagunillas on the South. We hope to expand this scope in the future to include Chapa Verde and Termas de Chillan, but that is in the future.

Anyone who has called an old phone number in Chile knows that reliable, up to date, information has a very limited shelf life. The information in this site was accurate in June 1996, so you may have to search for current numbers. Also new lodges etc may have also appeared, so the information below cannot be taken as exhaustive. We are not endorsing or promoting any of the resorts or lodges listed below, we are simply listing tips to help travelers willing to make their own arrangements. Please use this information as you would a friendly version of the yellow pages. The rates we mention are generally selected to be those most applicable for families traveling with children and should be viewed only as guidelines. Consult the resorts directly for current information.

There are extensive tips regarding traveling in Chile in the sites listed below. Please look at them.

A few thoughts on traveling with children. Chile is very safe. I like to tell the story how, some years back, I was driving on a country road in the lake district. While circling around a little town, I was signaled to stop by a man with two children. He approached me and said he was a teacher in the local school and that two of his pupils had missed the last bus. If I was going by such and such a place, would I mind carrying the children. I told him I was going in that direction and would be happy to take the children. He quickly loaded the children in my car and waved us good bye. This is not to say Chile is perfectly safe. Use common sense, especially in the cities.

As for the outdoors, there are no poison ivy or any poisonous plants nor any venomous animals to speak of in Chile. The only two critters that can cause a parent to worry are black recluse spiders (they are about as common in Chile as in the US, which is to say not that common) and a spider that lives in wheat fields (this one is fairly uncommon and I have yet to see one). Drinking water is generally safe, but do not be surprised if the children (or yourself) develop stomach problems. There are good medical facilities in Chile, especially in the bigger cities.

Speaking of language. Chile is a Spanish speaking country. If you stay within the gringo paths, you can probably get along with minimal Spanish. However the more Spanish you know, the easier it will be for you to venture forth outside the usual places. Remember that there is much to Chile outside of skiing. Finally, if you want to explore Chile with a family, it probably also makes sense renting a car, even if driving in Santiago competes to become one of those experiences not soon forgotten [update, summer 2004: Change is possible, believe it or not, traffic in Santiago is much better, not any worse than in many european cities].

Making your own travel arrangements:

For most large resorts and standard packages it does make sense to use one of the several travel agencies that specialize in ski packages to Chile. However if your needs are no well served by those standard packages you might need to make arrangements on your own. If you decide to make your own travel arrangements here are a few pointers:

All of the phone numbers listed below begin with Chile's country code (56) and a city code (usually 2, the city code for Santiago). The "real" phone number follows those two codes.

Make all of the arrangements via FAX or e-mail. Phone conversations have a way of being forgotten/misunderstood.

Get confirmations via FAX or e-mail.

If you want certainty, make your travel arrangements early. However, if you are willing to be flexible you can probably make arrangements at the last minute or even in Chile itself (provided you are not traveling during a national or school holiday). The worse time to travel is during the school's winter break, in mid July. August is generally fine except for a long weekend that can be created by a religious holiday (Asunsion de la Virgen, Aug 15 in 1997).

Let a travel agency work up the lodging arrangements within the larger cities.

If you plan to do any sightseeing/exploring get a good travel guide. I like the Guia Turistel (a Chilean Tourist guide published by the phone company and available widely in Chile) and the South American Handbook.

Weather resources:

The best overall source for snow conditions in the Andes is probably the Andesweb . You can also get general South America weather information at the GoSki site.

 

 
 




Below are specific pointers for families and travelers on a budget. However they require that you be at least vaguely familiar with the skiing possibilities in Chile. Since there are already three (great) web sites [summer 2004: only one site left!] that provide introductions to the better known ski resorts in Chile I will not repeat this information here. There is no point in reinventing the wheel...if you are unfamiliar with the possibilities browse away.......
 
A Brief introduction to skiing in South America. Top rated. 

 

. 


Portillo:

Good descriptions of Portillo can be found at:

A Brief introduction to skiing in South America: Portillo

There is a single place to stay in Portillo and it is at the resort's Hotel. The Hotel Portillo likes to book 7 nights, 8 days, all inclusive stays. It has a heated pool, gym, game room, laundry service, a kids camp (3-6 years old) and a nursery!

Hotel Portillo:
Roger de Flor 2911
Santiago, Chile
Phone 56 2 231-3411
FAX 56 2 231 7164.
Official Resort Web Site

There are no alternatives for lodging either at or in the immediate proximity of Portillo. However Portillo is on the international highway linking Chile and Argentina. This is a paved road which appears to provide reasonable access to the resort. Following a lead from Brian Passikof's homepage I was able to trace some lodging alternatives a little distance away.

The ski area is relatively close ( approx 65 kms, or approx. 1 hr car) to Los Andes, a small Chilean city known for its great weather and absolutely world class peaches (in summer). Los Andes has several hotels as well as a thermal baths spa "Baños Termales el Corazon". Upon a call, the administrators of the spa informed me that Chileans use the spa for lodging while day traveling to Portillo. They were also willing to book a short stay.

Balneario Termal El Corazon
Casilla 304,
Los Andes, Chile
Phone 56 34 481371
FAX 56 34 482852

Prices are for two people sharing a room. Add about 25% for each child. A variety of other accommodations are also available.

The potentially serious drawback here is that the international road can be closed due to weather or avalanche danger. Each closure might last from a few hours to several days in very extreme cases. I understand that Portillo does post a warning regarding impeding road closings, but I have not been able to confirm this. So how common are road closings? You can expect several closures of the road during a winter. However, if the weather looks stable.......

A second, budget, alternative is the Hotel Refugio Rio Colorado ( web info), Camino Internacional Km 18. Voice: 56 34 481062. The price I was quoted is 8000 pesos per person w/ breakfast and private bath (~US $ 20). This hotel/refugio is located on the international highway about 1/3 of the way to Portillo from Los Andes. The owner indicated to me that it is frequently used by Chileans as a base for skiing Portillo. She again emphasized the possibility that the road might be temporarily closed.

I have not been able to find lift ticket prices for Portillo. Lifts are included in the package if you stay at the Hotel Portillo.


Valle Nevado, La Parva, El Colorado, Farellones:

Immediately north east of Santiago is the largest and most popular ski area in Chile. Here 3 large ski resorts share the valleys formed by the tributaries of the Mapocho River. Because of their close proximity, and because it is relatively easy to move between the resorts, I have linked them together. La Parva, El Colorado and Valle Nevado have extensive ski areas, while Farellones provides some lodging opportunities.You can find excellent help for traveling to this area in A Local Guide to One of Chile's Best Ski Destinations.

While it is possible, some would say desirable, to stay at these resorts, this is not essential. There are several companies in Santiago that run daily shuttles to the resorts. You may think of this like skiing Alta or Snowbird  while staying in Salt Lake, but the shuttle here is longer and more expensive. These companies also offer packages (transportation/lift/rental) that can cut the cost quite a bit. This is a good service for those in Santiago for other purposes and want to catch a day or two of skiing. I would not recommend this option to families with kids intending to ski multiple days. All together the shuttle is well over an hour (probably 90 min+ to Valle Nevado) and it can get old pretty fast.

It is possible to drive up to the resorts, but be aware that chains may be mandatory at times. The drive itself is extraordinary, and also a never-to-be-forgotten experience for the driver.

Valle Nevado:

Valle Nevado is probably the best known resort in this area. It is also the newest, and is the only one built from the start as an international destination catering to Americans and Europeans. You can find great descriptions of Valle Nevado in A Brief introduction to skiing in South America: Valle Nevado , GoSKI: CHILE .

When I was looking for accommodations in this area using sources in the US, I was invariably directed to the three hotels in this resort, The Hotel Valle Nevado, Hotel Puerta del Sol and Hotel Tres Puntas. These hotels cater to distinct populations but like Portillo, they all like to book week-long stays. However, by contacting the office in Chile it appears possible to book shorter stays.

Valle Nevado S.A.
Gertrudis Echenique 441
Las Condes, Santiago
Chile
voice: 56 2 206 0027
FAX: 56 2 208-2695

Official Resort Web Site

El Colorado-Farellones

Less known to American and Europeans is the neighboring resort of El Colorado. This is reportedly the largest ski resort in Chile and has long been popular with Chileans. You can find excellent descriptions of this area in A Brief introduction to skiing in South America: El Colorado .

There are several possibilities for lodging in El Colorado.

Colorado Apart Hotel
Apoquindo 6275, oficina 88
Santiago, Chile
voice 56 2 245-3401 or 56 2 246-7398
FAX 56 2 246-4783
(Contact: Nuria Padros)

Other lodging possibilities include:

Hotel Edificio Monte Blanco
voice: 56 2 233-5501
FAX 56 2 231-6965

Condominio Cerro La Paloma
voice: 56 2 672-0168

Dept. Villa Palomar
voice 56 2 233-6801

If one continues downhill from the base of El Colorado through the Los Zorros (the foxes) and El Embudo (the funnel) runs you arrive at Villa Farellones, a somewhat larger group of homes, refugios and hotels. This is the oldest settlement in this area and provides the most flexible (and affordable) lodging alternatives. However the the skiing here is restricted to the bunny slopes and two blue run known as El Embudo (the funnel) and El Tanque (the tank). It is possible to reach the slopes in El Colorado by riding the surface lift up the mountain, but it is not the most convenient of arrangements. Because of this, at least one hotel, the Hotel Posada de Farellones offers shuttles to El Colorado and La Parva at no extra charge. Transportation to Valle Nevado can also be arranged but is extra. Other Hotels might offer a similar service, so check directly with each Hotel you contact.

Hotel Posada de Farellones
Apoquindo 6275, oficina 88
Santiago, Chile
voice 56 2 246-0660
FAX 56 2 246-4783
(Contact: Nuria Padros)

A second alternative here is:

Hotel La Cornisa
Phone-FAX 56 2 220-7581 (leave your name, FAX number and message and they will FAX you back)
(contact: Christophe Leonard).

I was quoted a single rate when I requested information for August. It was US $ 42 for each adult and US $ 21 for each child 12 and under (includes breakfast and dinner).

Other Hotels and refugios listed in the Guia Turistel are:
(I have not contacted these and I am simply listing them verbatim from the guide)

Hotel Alpino
voice (56) 2 2117073
FAX 56 2 220-9500

Motel Tupungato
voice 56 2 218-2216

Refugio Club Aleman Andino
voice 56 2 242-5453

Refugio Club Andino
voice 56 2 242-5453

Refugio Farellones
voice 56 2 242-5453

Refugio Maquimavida
voice 56 2 220-6879
FAX 56 2 246-3535
 
 

La Parva:

La Parva has been described by Chris Lizza as Chile's answer to Aspen. Although I have not seen flyfishing shops in La parva (you find those in the way up to the resort), and certainly no The Little Nell, I suspect that, in a cultural sense, he might be right. You can find descriptions of these resorts at A Brief introduction to skiing in South America: La Parva .

There appears to be no hotels in la Parva. However I was able to find a company that rents apartments. This was a most welcomed surprise although, like most other places I contacted, they like to book apartments for a full week at a time. It might be possible to book a shorter stay if the dates are available. If you consider renting an apartment, remember that there are no stores in the area (not even in Farellones), so you must plan on bringing up everything you'll need during your stay from Santiago.

Propiedades La Parva ltda.
Ave. Las Condes 12235, Local 25
Las Condes,
Santiago, Chile
voice: 56 2 217-3389
FAX 56 2 217-4519
(contact: Veronica Aedo)

LAGUNILLAS

This ski area, one of the oldest in Chile, is located immediately south west of Santiago, on the valley of the Maipo river. While it is probably as close or closer to Santiago than the big three, Lagunillas has not undergone the same kind of development. It remains a ski area of modest proportions and the whole area lists only 220 beds distributed over several refugios. The skiable terrain is commensurate and includes 13 runs serviced by 3 surface lifts and a vertical drop of a little over 1,100 feet. What makes Lagunillas unique, however, is that it is run by a not-for-profit organization, the Club Andino de Chile. As a result, there is little hype about this small ski area that bills itself as the affordable alternative to the big resorts. I have not been in Lagunillas in over 30 years, since I first (literally) strapped a pair of wooden skis on. However, I remember the deep dry powder reaching past the belly of the mules that carried us to the refugio. It is hard to resist such memories. You can find more about Lagunillas in A brief introduction to skiing in South America: Lagunillas.

The easiest place to stay at Lagunillas is the Refugio of the Club Andino de Chile. This organization now [2004] has a web site with information about this ski area, runs, lodging options at their refugio, lift prices, etc. (http://www.skilagunillas.cl/refugio.htm).


Thanks to Chriss Lizza and the folks from Beater Pants for help tracing down the information listed above. 

Last Updated: July 2004
Webmaster

 Sponsored by: 
Rio Simpson Expeditions